Sportsmatch full adjustable - tips for zeroing?

[dave h]

OK I have set of these mounts for getting the Photon XT zeroed.
Any suggestions on how to make this process less painful?
I had a quick try over the Christmas break but the fiddly nature of trying to get to the screws under the scope meant it was a nightmare.
I didn't get as long as I would have liked as the wind got up but am hoping to get up to the barn on my permission this Sunday and have another go in there.

How much do you need to release the screws before adjusting as it is the loosen & then tighten process which was driving me mad.
Trouble is I know that with normal mounts and scope I could have got the thing set up, but I went for the adjustables due to the horror stories of trying to get Photons zeroed otherwise.

<sigh> I tell myself it will be worth it once the scope is on but in the meantime I just know the rats & rabbits are out there laughing at me!

[Blackbaronfish]

Could you put a link up of these please.

BBF

[dave h]

Sure, or rather I'll have a go...

http://opticswarehouse.co.uk/product/sp ... ope-rings/

It is the ATP66 model, which should be fine.
The issue is the small screws, not on the side of the mounts, but on the face, which puts them under the scope once it is mounted. It is the locking screw that has to be released on both mounts prior to making any modifications, and then retightened before taking sighting shots. Of course if the adjustment is not enough you then have to repeat the process. And this for both windage & elevation.
I was finding it highly frustrating to try and release & tighten them as the access is obstructed by the scope above and you can only get a v small amount of turn before the allen key fouls the scope.
My concern is to not damage the mounts and so maybe I am slackening off the assorted locking screws more than I need to?
I am just trying to get the cross hairs as well centred as possible using the mounts before I start shifting them in the field of view.

Maybe I just need to be more chilled out and find my happy place before I try and go through the process again. And breathe....

All advice gratefully received!

[Brooksy]

I clamped the gun in a Workmate bench and made sure it didn't wobble. Then aim, shoot, leave everything still and adjust to match POI.
Check plumb, fire again, tighten locking screws.

I found 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on the locking screws did it.

You can loosen the locks and adjust the X-Y screws and fire, then put the key in the locks and tighten them whilst looking through the scope. If the cross hair moves just loosen the lock off and tweak X or Y then tighten again.

[pelletcaster]

Hi Dave,

I put mine on my DS MK4iS without the slightest problem.
So I wonder if you ever read the instructions even ONCE.

Anyway - happy shooting
Andreas

[Brooksy]

Hi Dave,

I put mine on my DS MK4iS without the slightest problem.
So I wonder if you ever read the instructions even ONCE.

Anyway - happy shooting
Andreas

I put mine on my TDR but used Hawke mounts, it was terrible, I had to shim the rear up by 2 mm and then the front sideways by 1 mm. Even then the crosshair was bottom left. It depends on the quality of the mounts I suppose.

[dave h]

Thanks Brooksy that is helpful.
It looks like I was probably unlocking by more than I needed to, which was making the fiddly process longer than it needed to be.
Not having a workmate I have to rely on shooting prone off a bipod. This is enough when using the scope to adjust but I got the feeling that there was some wobble in the mounts if I didn't tighten them up before shooting - which I now think was due to unwinding them too much in the first place.
I'll give it another go this weekend and hopefully be reporting back next week with tales of expired rodents.

Dave

(I'll ignore the contribution from Andreas.)