Leaking fill valve

[Falconhoof]

I've a leak on my BRAND NEW yet to see daylight S400.

I've traced it down to coming from the base of the fill valve. I've no way of getting in contact with Air Arms as they are shut until May. I'm guessing this looks like replacing the o ring behind the fill valve and seems a simple enough job.
Any opinions on this (apart from a £500+ brand new rifle shouldn't leak )

If the RFD was open I would of took it straight back and demanded a refund to be honest.

[Roger5]

Your right, shouldn't be leaking, but no big deal if you have the seal S484 is the one you want, S327 is on the filler valve, open ended spanner should do it. Make sure cylinder is empty. Rog

[Falconhoof]

I replaced the seal with a like for like one out of an air arms seal kit I had lying about. Seems to of worked.
The bolt is ridiculously stiff for that final click to cock it though.

[Roger5]

As you say some are very stiff, I've got a TDR .22 that needs a bit of a tug, I leave it cocked overnight sometimes, seems to help, will probably look at a softer spring in the future, still a nice accurate rifle though
I've also come across a couple of brass fillers like that, what pellets you using?

[rob2hook]

When I got my S400 (2nd hand) it had not been used for some time. The bolt was surprisingly hard to pull and needed quite a tug to get it actually cock onto the sear. In desperation, I cleaned the bolt by running it in and out wrapped in kitchen towel to remove anything that was on it. I then greased it as per the manual using Napier grease. It was greatly improved so I immediately did it again and it achieved "acceptable" . I've cleaned and greased a couple of times since and it is really quite slick and pulls back to full cock nicely.

It took me a while to realise that I had adopted the suggested method from the manual i.e. gripping with the thumb opposite the lever. This makes the pull straighter and prevents effort being wasted in pulling the bolt off axis and increasing friction.

For some reason, I believe the trigger is built with grease as a lubricant. That's good for storage and doesn't stop it working, but I sluiced it all out and simply left the trigger assembly oiled. That has transformed the trigger from predictable to slick and light. I suspect it also helps with the cocking effort as the top sear can now move without the drag of the grease as the striker knocks it down when cocking.

Others may disagree with this, but it is my experience.

Rob.

[Roger5]

Bolts not the problem, it only pulls the hammer back against the pressure of the spring, I've got a couple of TDRs and an S400 that need nowhere near the effort needed to cock like this TDR .22 needs, as I say apart from the cocking effort it's fine, and the trigger, I just degrease and leave dry. Rog

[Falconhoof]

As you say some are very stiff, I've got a TDR .22 that needs a bit of a tug, I leave it cocked overnight sometimes, seems to help, will probably look at a softer spring in the future, still a nice accurate rifle though
I've also come across a couple of brass fillers like that, what pellets you using?

JSB 15.9
It's what I've always used as I find them very predictable and consistent in the wind

[Roger5]

Mines not so keen on JSB 15.89 in 5.52 the AADF 16g 5.52 seem to be its preferred diet
But have been trying JSB RS 13.43 5.52, not had a chance to test at longer ranges yet
But hopefully they will be ok, little bit flatter and little bit faster.
Keep tugging that bolt