Air Arms Owners Club

Hello peeps.

Few questions as I have ocd.

Bought a S200 as farmer want me to shoot the rats, if I don't then someone else will bought from a photo and meet up in a dark layby, yes I know, very much my bad. But job done now so I have to sort the problems.

First, surface rust all over. I can sort it if I can totally strip. I have some ceracoat here. Just hope there's enough in the can left.

The air tube, is it easy to total strip. On the tube it has writing, as I will be blasting will it cause any problems?

The barrle also needs doing, that's no biggie as does the trigger guard.

Right, my few issues. Big fingers and rolling pellets in. Its causing problems and upside down pellets. Need to find a cheap way around this.

Bolt, does not lock down and its very gritty to pull back.

Trigger pull and brake. OK I know its not like my old s410 that I polished and. Hanged a few parts with Julian's supplies, but the s200. Omg! NEED to sort out.

Right, here's the rub, couldn't afford to buy gun in first place, then noticed a small over sight of charger, or lack of. Had to sort pump.

I would love to be able to throw money at the problems but it would have been cheaper just to by an S410. Little bit miffed but to later for that.

Some one also said something about a regulator or something as I will get more shots and more at a constant. Think this will be more than I have so will have to stay as a dream.

The rifle is a MK3 .177 S200

What do you think guys, apart from being stupid and buying in dark. How much and what is needed.

Thanks for reading and any help offered.

Kind regards

Phil

The S200 is an incredibly easy rifle to restore. As long as the aluminium action block is not damaged, a bit of TLC will restore it with not a lot of cost. Where are you based?

I'm in Gloucester.

Today I totally stripped. The barrel and cylinder I have cleaned all the rust off. 0000wire wool and Napier oil.

Stripped the breach block and cleaned all the dirt out. Polished the sears and set up the trigger so first stage is short and the brake on second stage is crisp.

The cocking bolt I have funds smoother since cleaning and trigger guard also has had the rust cleaned off. I will get around to making a new stainless bolt and handle to smooth out that.

Found some stainless bolts the I have trimmed to fit and replace the rusty ones that hold the stock on.

Borrowed a pump for now so I can run it to find any more quarks before taking the barrel and tube apart and painting.

Still struggling with loading, big hands and shakes not helping, would like to find a cheap solution for that.

Also will have to shoot a few full strings over a chrony to find the sweet spots.

Just wish I could stand longer to get more done quicker. Lol story of my life. Brains says yes! Body says get not a chance. Still, gives me something to do other than get under wife's feet.

Right mate,

My ten pence worth,

Raj should be able to point you in the right direction he helped me out!, as for the pellet tray, search on the net, some companies supply a nice anodised one which has a wall on the side so you can roll the pellet on to rather than try and place,

It's either that or a magazine adaption,(expensive)

Your bolt not locking down do you mean by it goes forward but flops? That will be because of the small ball bearing,

It's located on the top of the block,

Flat head screwdriver, inside the screw should be a small spring (often retains in the screw itself) and inside the hole there should be a ball bearing, basically if you have taken the bolt out there is a grove in it where the ball bearing should fit in when the bolt is sitting in its down position.

Have a look? Hope this is what you mean

Craig

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DCE8NINNlGE

Should help you strip and get things back,

The grittiness is either your hammer spring or the bolt itself

Grittiness while cocking can also come from the spring loaded screw mentioned above being too tight.

I have notice the bolt has a lot of machining marks. Rather ruff. Bit like a ratsstail file. Also the ball bearing doesn't locate in the dimple. So handle is floppy.

Will look in to the spring as well Raj, thank you.

Yes, the bolt seldom locates when it is in the cocked and 'patted down' position. I have packed the gap between the round ball of bolt and the stock with a small piece of stickyback rubber (when the ball is in the dimple) that came with some IKEA product or the other - cut to size. You only need a little blob about 6mm diameter.

Will have a look at adjusting the dimple with the dremel.and then padding as well. Thanks Raj.

I borrowed a chrono today and played with a few differant pellets. I was shocked how low the f/lb was.

Using accupell, Average over 5 shots was 8.1 f/lb
H&N trophies were 8.5
AA diablo fields came in at 8.4

I don't like heavier or lighter pellets. All the above I like so,

Is there a run down how to adjust please.

I have drilled two holes in the rear spring plug. The stock spanner fits it perfectly. I need to a lot the tamper cover on the side and then I will replace once I have where I want.

How do I balance the two areas please gents.

All the best
Phil