Air Arms S400F Carbine .177

[RichieRich612]

Maybe it has slipped back and out of position leaving a gap. Removing and refitting the brassware may do it. Heat and loctite required.

That seems the logical answer Peter.
I did have a look inside the breech but couldn't see a gap, plus the brass housing is flush with the breech housing at the loading end so that rules out a gap.
Richard

[Jammy13]

Hi all,
just signed up to hopefully help RichieRich612 with his problem.

I had problems with seating the pellets in my s410. I found that the barrel had moved forward because the Loctite holding the barrel seal holder had failed. I was able to remove the barrel and leave the brass holder in place.

The holder on my s410 is held by 2 grub screws on the top and 1 underneath. Once the 3 grub screws were loosened I was able to extract the barrel seal holder. I cleaned up all maiting surfaces with steel wool and applied blue Loctite sparingly but ensured I covered all the surfaces. I think I left it for an hour to set then reassembled. I'm sure the s400F will be put together the same way.

While you have it apart I suggest you fit a new barrel seal which is very easy to do when the barrel seal holder is off the barrel.

If the barrel seal hold is marked, scraped or scratched a lot I think a wise move is to replace it.

Keith

[RichieRich612]

Hi all,
just signed up to hopefully help RichieRich612 with his problem.

I had problems with seating the pellets in my s410. I found that the barrel had moved forward because the Loctite holding the barrel seal holder had failed. I was able to remove the barrel and leave the brass holder in place.

The holder on my s410 is held by 2 grub screws on the top and 1 underneath. Once the 3 grub screws were loosened I was able to extract the barrel seal holder. I cleaned up all maiting surfaces with steel wool and applied blue Loctite sparingly but ensured I covered all the surfaces. I think I left it for an hour to set then reassembled. I'm sure the s400F will be put together the same way.

While you have it apart I suggest you fit a new barrel seal which is very easy to do when the barrel seal holder is off the barrel.

If the barrel seal hold is marked, scraped or scratched a lot I think a wise move is to replace it.

Keith

Thank you for your comment Keith.
Trouble with mine is that the barrel holder doesn't want to come out at all even with all grub screws removed, think it's pretty locked in with loctite.
I'll try some heat on it tomorrow and see if it comes out.
The barrel seems to be flush with it though because looking down the holes when the two grub screws on top are removed I can see the markings of the grub screws are perfectly aligned.
Richard

[TenMetrePeter]

Welcome Keith. Good writeup - you can stay

Richard, brassware loose on barrel but stuck in block may also be leaky and lose some power. If you use heat remember the o rings under there - you’re only supposed to blow the bloody doors off

[RichieRich612]

Welcome Keith. Good writeup - you can stay

Richard, brassware loose on barrel but stuck in block may also be leaky and lose some power. If you use heat remember the o rings under there - you’re only supposed to blow the bloody doors off

Haha yes Peter I won't forget to remove the transfer port o ring and breech o ring first

[RichieRich612]

Welcome Keith. Good writeup - you can stay

Richard, brassware loose on barrel but stuck in block may also be leaky and lose some power. If you use heat remember the o rings under there - you’re only supposed to blow the bloody doors off

Peter the barrel isn't loose when the 2 top grub screws are tightened down onto it.
Do you think it's best to glue the brass barrel section to it once I've removed it?
I'm not loosing any power though, had to adjust the transfer port inwards if anything to keep it 11.8 using Jsb Heavies 10.4 grain.
Richard

[TenMetrePeter]

Tight doesn't mean airtight. If the brass is not loctited to the barrel theres a small air escape route downwind of the breech seal. May not be a significant air loss.

[RichieRich612]

Tight doesn't mean airtight. If the brass is not loctited to the barrel theres a small air escape route downwind of the breech seal. May not be a significant air loss.

But if I loctite the barrel into the brass housing then loctite the brass housing into the block it'll be a nightmare to remove in future.

Plus the brass housing is already locked really firmly into the block.
P.s the o.p is in reference to the pellet not loading smoothly, nothing to do with loose barrel or wasting air every shot

[TenMetrePeter]

... unless the bad loading is due to ill fitting brassware .

Yes the brass should not be loctited into the body. Thought you were going to free that off?

[RichieRich612]

... unless the bad loading is due to ill fitting brassware .

Yes the brass should not be loctited into the body. Thought you were going to free that off?

I am indeed Peter. That's this evening's project.
At least if I remove the brass housing I can see the cause of my problems.
Richard