First addition!

[charlie8lam]

Hi All,

Well I've done it, only bought our first rifle, after much "sweet trolleying around", apologies if any of you were subjected to my million and one questions on Freeads or MEWE!!!

The new addition to the family is a bouncing baby TX200HC .177 Walnut stock, bought by the original owner in January of this year, sporting a pretty crappy Hawke Fastmount 3-9x40 but this will have to do for now. The younglings have accepted her well but the Wife and dog aren't to impressed. My son doesn't know as he is on his DofE but my youngest, Gracie 11, is getting to grips with shooting using a cushion and is by far and away the best shot much to my annoyance! If I may I am reaching out to the forum for advice please. I do not believe the gun has seen much lead and was given a tin of Gamo pellets (7.56 grain) which I have chrono'd (cheap Chinese jobby on Ebay) at home averaging 235 m/s (min 232 max 239) which equates to 772 ft/s. This has the muzzle energy @ 10 ft/lbs which I believe to be very low??? I would accept circa 11 ft/lbs, however with my limited shooting ability accuracy was far superior than when borrowing my friend's .22 Gamo "something or other". You are probably asking why I didn't chrono at the sellers home but after seeing receipt and reading in AA manual of a transferable 12 month warranty I didn't feel the need to make a fool of myself fumbling around in a stranger's garden with a strange rifle and new Oriental technical device!

So firstly:
Do I open the TX to see if there is anything untoward internally? Does this void my warranty which after checking AA website appears to be 3 years non-transferable, OOPS!
What do I use to clean the metal work and stop my finger prints doing lasting damage?
Walnut stock although absolutely glorious feels dry and in need of some TLC, what do I do? I assume any "therapy" requires the stock to stay firmly attached to metalwork?
Many thanks for all/any who firstly read this and secondly volunteer any advice/assistance.

Cheers

[bgaltd]

Hi All,

Well I've done it, only bought our first rifle, after much "sweet trolleying around", apologies if any of you were subjected to my million and one questions on Freeads or MEWE!!!

The new addition to the family is a bouncing baby TX200HC .177 Walnut stock, bought by the original owner in January of this year, sporting a pretty crappy Hawke Fastmount 3-9x40 but this will have to do for now. The younglings have accepted her well but the Wife and dog aren't to impressed. My son doesn't know as he is on his DofE but my youngest, Gracie 11, is getting to grips with shooting using a cushion and is by far and away the best shot much to my annoyance! If I may I am reaching out to the forum for advice please. I do not believe the gun has seen much lead and was given a tin of Gamo pellets (7.56 grain) which I have chrono'd (cheap Chinese jobby on Ebay) at home averaging 235 m/s (min 232 max 239) which equates to 772 ft/s. This has the muzzle energy @ 10 ft/lbs which I believe to be very low??? I would accept circa 11 ft/lbs, however with my limited shooting ability accuracy was far superior than when borrowing my friend's .22 Gamo "something or other". You are probably asking why I didn't chrono at the sellers home but after seeing receipt and reading in AA manual of a transferable 12 month warranty I didn't feel the need to make a fool of myself fumbling around in a stranger's garden with a strange rifle and new Oriental technical device!

So firstly:
Do I open the TX to see if there is anything untoward internally? Does this void my warranty which after checking AA website appears to be 3 years non-transferable, OOPS!
( open it and clean all the excess grease off )
What do I use to clean the metal work and stop my finger prints doing lasting damage?
(wipe it down after each use before you put it in the safe or safely locked away from the children )
Walnut stock although absolutely glorious feels dry and in need of some TLC, what do I do? I assume any "therapy" requires the stock to stay firmly attached to metalwork?
I'll leave the woodwork to someone who knows what they're talking about apart from the metal work can be away from the stock when you treat the wood
Many thanks for all/any who firstly read this and secondly volunteer any advice/assistance.

Cheers

sounds like a wonderful new purchase , you'll love it .

as for the low power , try some decent pellets through it after the advise above and chrono again . 10.6-11.3ftlbs is perfect for the TX and Prosport . it may be low as it hasn't had many pellets through it .

ring me if you want any advise on the stripdown , need parts or just need reassurance that it will all be ok .

rgds

julian.

ps. welcome to the AAOC .

[rob2hook]

The action and barrel should be wiped down with an oily rag immediately after use and the gun put away without any further handling - that takes care of fingerprints and any other rust promoting deposits. If you've been out in the rain, you should drop the action out of the stock, wipe dry and give it the oily rag treatment all over and make sure the stock isn't damp before you refit the action.

I agree you shouldn't worry about the power until you've found its preferred pellet, but those Gamos aren't renowned for quality or accuracy. They are also pretty much as light as you would want to go with a nominally 12fpe gun which may be affecting the power. Although often a springer will put out more power with a light pellet, I've heard people say that the TX can appear to be almost the opposite until you're approaching 10 grain. Who knows?

The stock, being walnut, will have been finished with oil. Beech stocks are finished with a lacquer. There are a number of different oil finishes available each capable of achieving a different effect. Some people talk about generic "walnut oil", but this seems to encompass a range of proprietary blends. Another option would be Danish oil - and again there seems to be little clarity as to what this is. I've used supermarket brand "teak oil" or "danish oil" which seem to be the same thing on garden furniture, which brings out the colour and grain of the wood , soaking in and with varying levels of it drying on the surface. I have also used Deks Olje on my boat, which comes in two types a saturation oil which works much like the supermarket types, but can be allowed to build on the surface much more successfully, giving a fairly deep sheen and a silky feeling finish. The second option is a drying oil finish which gives a finish much more akin to a varnish, though quite soft. There are frequent arguments on AGF as to whether particular finishes are oil or varnish, but after all varnish is an oil base with drying oil (usually tung oil) blended in to make it dry and harden. If you don't believe me you should try cleaning my cooker after I've been stir frying!

Some people like a finish produced by many thin coats of boiled linseed oil rubbed in. This gives only a slight sheen in my experience, but is very good as a waterproofing and easy to refurbish just by rubbing in a few more coats. Warning, raw linseed oil doesn't dry!

Rob.