Air Arms S400f trigger.

[RichieRich612]

Recently bought a really good condition second hand s400f carbine in .177 mainly to be used for hft.
The rifle itself is superb, low weight and very accurate.
The only issue I have is the trigger feels absolutely rubbish.
I've looked online and found many tutorials how to reset it to factory settings by unscrewing the first stage adjustment until it won't fire and so on but still seems absolutely garbage.
I have an old s410 .22 which has a much better, crisper trigger than this.
Without any drastic measures of swapping the trigger unit to my old s410 is there anything I can do to make it better?
The first stage may aswell feel non existent and the second stage seems to fire when it wants without any creep at all.
I've adjusted the trigger weight as far as it will go without binding the spring but still far too light and bordering dangerous.

[TenMetrePeter]

Study the videos below. Take side plate off and make sure all the parts look like they are in good condition.
Make sure the screw holding the sear spring is only finger tight and then loosened off 1/4 turn.
Put plate back and do the reset.
When winding back second stage go one and a quarter turns back to leave it heavy. If second stage still too light consider a new set of 3 sears and springs.

[RichieRich612]

Study the videos below. Take side plate off and make sure all the parts look like they are in good condition.
Make sure the screw holding the sear spring is only finger tight and then loosened off 1/4 turn.
Put plate back and do the reset.
When winding back second stage go one and a quarter turns back to leave it heavy. If second stage still too light consider a new set of 3 sears and springs.

Thanks my friend, I will have a go tomorrow and see if I can fix the issue. The poor trigger is letting the whole rifle down.

[tonyc]

I don't mean to cause offence but are you sure you actually have a second stage? The symptoms suggest it may be firing on the first stage. Even with the adjustment spring binding you won't get much weight on the first stage. You should feel a distinct increase in resistance as the second stage screw acts on the sear; if you are not feeling this, the screw can't be making contact.

I'm not knocking TMP's method but, even though it gives a crisp break, it doesn't give me the let-off point I like, which is further forward than many shooters prefer. (I have big hands, a long reach and my finger joints are getting stiff, so set-back triggers are definitely not for me!) If you are not absolutely sure you have two stages (don't be tricked by a change of resistance over the first stage travel) you might try winding in the first stage screw to reduce the first-stage travel and ensure the trigger fires on first stage only. Then wind in the second stage screw until it acts. You can get a crisp let-off over large part of the full range of trigger travel but not at the extremes. The secret is to find the precise point at which the second stage screw engages, then give a quarter turn clockwise on the second stage for a safe break. Alternatively, you can achieve a similar safe break by leaving the second stage screw where it barely engages, then back off the first stage screw a little. If you are confident in playing off the relationship between the two screws you can "walk" the let-off point backwards and forwards whilst maintaining a crisp break with no "creep".

[TenMetrePeter]

My method resets the trigger to factory settings, not necessarily to an optimum for a particular user. When it was on youtube there were dozens of thank you comments so it got a lot of people out of trouble.
Having seen photos of Richies trigger it seems strange to have one set screw way out and the other hidden in the trigger and it could be firing on second stage with no first stage. So Im not convinced the procedure has been done by the book yet.

[tonyc]

Having seen photos of Richies trigger it seems strange to have one set screw way out and the other hidden in the trigger and it could be firing on second stage with no first stage. So Im not convinced the procedure has been done by the book yet.

Seems strange the weight setting is spring bound but the trigger still light when only acting/firing on second stage. If only firing on first stage I could understand this. Is the spring broken?

(PS - I appreciated you vids too... we are on the same page re restoring AA setting and user preferences.)

[TenMetrePeter]

I have suggested putting the guard back and doing the reset by pseudo-cocking the top sear . I don’t see how the below setup can have a first stage, but he’s also going to swap triggers with another AA gun

[Roger5]

This is an earlier trigger with the rubber o-rings on the pins, Julian does the small washers to replace these, much better than the rubber o-rings. Rog

[tonyc]

I don’t see how the below setup can have a first stage....

I see what you mean!
I'd wind the second stage right out and the first stage in, then re-assemble and set the first stage travel (firing on first stage only) then bring in the second stage. We can't assess from this photo what the trigger weight was set at but the spring looks okay so I'd guess there must be something binding on the screw if he can't get enough weight.

[bgaltd]

Do you want some washers Tony ?

if so email me your address .