Air Arms Owners Club

If you remove the trigger block, in order to set the 1st/2nd screws ( I have a window cut in the block to show sear engagement)....

can you cock the trigger with something else, other than the piston end, for dry firing?

does dry firing damage the sears/trigger in any way?

If you set the trigger exactly how you like it, then refit, are further adjustments necessary?

thanks
steve

Should be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF2UyX9Ca3g

thanks
sorts some of them

is dry firing ok?
This can damage a HW Rekord (sear) if a pin isn't put through the top of the block

As the design is more than similar I wouldn't recommend dry firing for the CD too though just from pictures it seems that serious damage is less likely.
Mine is in my TX so can't check it in reality now.

At the Rekord if the trigger case is out of its place the upper sear is completely free and it will turn to much thus slaming against the upper side of the lower sear that has contact to the trigger blade. So damage can/will occour at the contact point as are the underside of the lower sear (leaving strange marks there) and/or the stage 1 & 2 roller pins in the trigger blade.

So don't let the upper sear release completely. Just put a stopping finger over it and dry firing shouldn't harm in anyway.

You will be able to get very close with adjustments made out of the gun, but I've always found a little extra tweak is needed. I guess the trigger acts a little different when it's holding back all the main spring pressure.

Well, after ages of paralysis by analysis, I finally got down to it.
I'd had some work done on the TX (titanium piston) and I felt the trigger needed some readjustment afterwards.

The guy who stripped and fettled my trigger initially had cut a window in the block to show sear engagement.
The advice i got from him was that dry firing CD was ok.



Initially I thought I'd do all the adjustments with the trigger on the action but this involves much cocking and firing.
Much safer/easier with the block off the action, so off it came.

Those 2 retaining pins are a b*gger to knock out/return aren't they?
Tight tight tight, and rounded ends so the pin punch wants to slip as you tap away.

Off the action and wind out the 1st and 2nd stage screws until nothing engages.
Wind the 1st stage screw in until it just holds.

I'd thought about just having a 1st stage trigger, without fully realising what that meant.
You get the trigger cocked and safe but no sensation of stop with the trigger prior to the sear slipping.
Not nice.

So, wind in the 2nd stage screw and, lo, a stop appears.
Slacken off the pull weight a fraction.
Back on the action and back in the stock.
One tiny tweek to the second stage to remove a fraction of creep.
Cock, remove safety, whack butt, whack pistol grip.

A long first stage, then a stop you can feel and bump up to without the gun firing.
No floppy trigger when you back off the shot.
Tiny bit more pressure and away she goes

Time to stop now, perfect for me.

I'm grateful for your advice folks.
Now to shoot some groups.