Hi all,
Has anyone has any experience of a really stubborn air cylinder. I've emptied it of air & am trying to remove it to inspect the inside & fit a de-pinger from Julian. I have tried heat & gripping it with a latex glove to give more grip but no joy. All the strip down videos say it's only hand tight
Thanks in advance
S410 cylinder removal
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Jonny1510 wrote:Hi all,
Has anyone has any experience of a really stubborn air cylinder. I've emptied it of air & am trying to remove it to inspect the inside & fit a de-pinger from Julian. I have tried heat & gripping it with a latex glove to give more grip but no joy. All the strip down videos say it's only hand tight
Thanks in advance
which end are you trying to take off ?
Re: S410 cylinder removal
The transfer port end
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Jonny1510 wrote:The transfer port end
are you sure there no air left in it as it shouldn't be that hard to undo .
Re: S410 cylinder removal
I'm absolutely certain, dry fired until it dumped the last of the air. Also made sure I could push the valve with the hammer! This seems to have quite a few people stumped!
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Jonny1510 wrote:I'm absolutely certain, dry fired until it dumped the last of the air. Also made sure I could push the valve with the hammer! This seems to have quite a few people stumped!
are you anywhere near somerset ? if so pop over to see me and i'll have a look at it for you
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Thanks for the offer Julian but I'm in West Yorkshire so a bit of a treck!
It's been suggested to clamp it in a vice with some wooden blocks & put a spanner over the gauge block for extra leverage so I'll try that in the morning. Just puzzled as to why mine is so difficult to get off as they are usually hand tight!
It's been suggested to clamp it in a vice with some wooden blocks & put a spanner over the gauge block for extra leverage so I'll try that in the morning. Just puzzled as to why mine is so difficult to get off as they are usually hand tight!
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Jonny1510 wrote:Thanks for the offer Julian but I'm in West Yorkshire so a bit of a treck!
It's been suggested to clamp it in a vice with some wooden blocks & put a spanner over the gauge block for extra leverage so I'll try that in the morning. Just puzzled as to why mine is so difficult to get off as they are usually hand tight!
the wooden blocks sound good but not the spanner on the gauge block , it'll cause the block to leak from either of the o rings or may distort the block .
Re: S410 cylinder removal
I was dubious about it but willing to try almost anything! I'll try the vice & elbow grease then. Thanks for telling me about that, although you've just done yourself out of a sale for a new gauge block
Re: S410 cylinder removal
Have you tried re fitting the barrel band at 10 O'Clock to the barrel and using it as a handle? Google Altaros and look at the fitting video for their AA regulator.
This link might work, click on 'Detail' and then 'Video.'
http://www.altaros.cz/en/air-arms/3-air ... lar-models
This link might work, click on 'Detail' and then 'Video.'
http://www.altaros.cz/en/air-arms/3-air ... lar-models
The early bird may get the worm, but it's the second one mouse that gets the cheese.
Theoben Rapid Mk2 .20, Light Stream 4.5X14X44 FFP.
AA S410 TDR .177, Yukon Photon XT with 135 mm lens conversion.
Theoben Rapid Mk2 .20, Light Stream 4.5X14X44 FFP.
AA S410 TDR .177, Yukon Photon XT with 135 mm lens conversion.
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