Hey, which type of lubricant would be best to dab on trigger sears & does it have to be specifically made for air guns?
Thanks
trigger lubricant
Re: trigger lubricant
Paulmurd wrote:Hey, which type of lubricant would be best to dab on trigger sears & does it have to be specifically made for air guns?
Thanks
I imagine you are going to get a lot of different opinions on this subject, my thoughts on this, are that I don't want to encourage any grit dirt or dust to adhere to the contact surfaces of the sears and so I always leave them dry ie unlubed, but a lot of people will tell you different, it is noted that a new rifle from A/A always comes with grease/oil on trigger sears, I just strip them and clean all the muck out and leave them dry. Rog
Re: trigger lubricant
Hey mate. Thanks for the honest opinion. Its exactly what ive done with it but thought id ask incase it would benefit a touch of something on the underside of the sears but it seems smooth enough as is. There was black grease all over them!
Cheers
Cheers
- pelletcaster
- Posts: 80
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Re: trigger lubricant
As there is a lot of spring load on relatively small surfaces and pure metal-to-metal contact the use of some MoS2-paste is a must for me.
Never had a problem so far.
Never had a problem so far.
Live is a journey - not a destination.
-----------------------------------------
AA TX200 HC / LGU Master / LGV-CU / HW35 / HW50s (1974) / HW50S (2015) / HW90 / DIANA 34 T01
DS MK4iS-S / SPA P-12 / CZ200S-Green
-----------------------------------------
AA TX200 HC / LGU Master / LGV-CU / HW35 / HW50s (1974) / HW50S (2015) / HW90 / DIANA 34 T01
DS MK4iS-S / SPA P-12 / CZ200S-Green
- Blackbaronfish
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Re: trigger lubricant
I use a tiny bit of Bisley graphite grease on mine. You only need a tiny bit on the mating surfaces. This includes the sears and mounting pins.
BBF
BBF
Did I mention that I'm the only one to have attended EVERY meet since we started
Re: trigger lubricant
I've moved to the PFPE lubricants (Ultimox, Krytox) for most of my airguns. After cleaning all trigger parts with solvent, I coat any friction and bearing surfaces with Ultimox then remove most of what I've applied. This leaves micro thin film of lube. I haven't had problems with the parts collecting dust and debris but I've only been using this method for a few years. Also, Ultimox has an anti oxidation additive which is a bit of a bonus.
One caveat worth mentioning;
PFPE Lubes require the removal of all other lubes from the parts. It does not play well with others
a thorough cleaning with solvent should suffice. Now the rub, once you use PFPE type lube, it can only be totally removed by a special solvent as it is impervious to common solvents. Just something to keep in mind when making the jump to PFPE lubrication.
Quick read on removal solvent:
https://www.chemours.com/Lubricants/en_ ... aners.html
One caveat worth mentioning;
PFPE Lubes require the removal of all other lubes from the parts. It does not play well with others

Quick read on removal solvent:
https://www.chemours.com/Lubricants/en_ ... aners.html
Shoot long enough and you too will have a one hole group.
Re: trigger lubricant
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum so i hope I'm doing this right and not speaking out of place? if so my apologies now.
I have spent a good few years with the amazing S300/400 series rifles, absolutely Brilliant rifles so modifiable and so fixable with out the need for special tools or jig's etc,
Anyway like many folk i like my trigger sears etc "totally spotlessly clean!" and with no oil or liquid lube as such, but, i do rub all the 'touching surfaces' with a little pencil lead, the pencil leaves a little graphite behind which leaves a little dry lube which i have found is just about perfect and there's always a pencil lying about somewhere, graphite can be bought as a dry lube but i find a pencil leaves just the right amount.
While your in there it pays to find some Extremely Thin washers and place them under all the moving sear parts, then replace the sears and chuck away those little 'O' rings and place a 'crinkle' washer on the top of each sear and replace the lid, now check the end-play of all the moving parts, i.e. the lid Does Not cause any drag on any of the moving parts, ideally you should have no detectable end-play on any of the moving parts, but all the moving parts must be able to move freely. Like all things to get right may take a good while, but doing it properly is Well Worth all the work and time, and after all your finger and the trigger blade is really your only contact with all the mechanics in the gun, just a thought.
Hope i've not gone to long here?
Good Health to you all, Pete.
I'm new to this forum so i hope I'm doing this right and not speaking out of place? if so my apologies now.
I have spent a good few years with the amazing S300/400 series rifles, absolutely Brilliant rifles so modifiable and so fixable with out the need for special tools or jig's etc,
Anyway like many folk i like my trigger sears etc "totally spotlessly clean!" and with no oil or liquid lube as such, but, i do rub all the 'touching surfaces' with a little pencil lead, the pencil leaves a little graphite behind which leaves a little dry lube which i have found is just about perfect and there's always a pencil lying about somewhere, graphite can be bought as a dry lube but i find a pencil leaves just the right amount.
While your in there it pays to find some Extremely Thin washers and place them under all the moving sear parts, then replace the sears and chuck away those little 'O' rings and place a 'crinkle' washer on the top of each sear and replace the lid, now check the end-play of all the moving parts, i.e. the lid Does Not cause any drag on any of the moving parts, ideally you should have no detectable end-play on any of the moving parts, but all the moving parts must be able to move freely. Like all things to get right may take a good while, but doing it properly is Well Worth all the work and time, and after all your finger and the trigger blade is really your only contact with all the mechanics in the gun, just a thought.
Hope i've not gone to long here?
Good Health to you all, Pete.
Heavily Modified 'AA S400' Konus 12-60x56 scope,
'Dayststae Mk3' 10-40x50 scope,
Home made PCP 8-32x44 scope,
AA 'TM-100' (now restored and shooting well),
AA 'FTP900' 10-40x56 Nikko-Diamond scope,
'Rohm Pistol' Reflex sight.
'Dayststae Mk3' 10-40x50 scope,
Home made PCP 8-32x44 scope,
AA 'TM-100' (now restored and shooting well),
AA 'FTP900' 10-40x56 Nikko-Diamond scope,
'Rohm Pistol' Reflex sight.
- TenMetrePeter
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Re: trigger lubricant
Opinions always welcome! The only thing I would say about using pencil rather than pure graphite lock powder is use 6B or softer. HB grade (no2 in some countries) has a lot of china clay to make the pencil medium hard. That will wear as much as lubricate.
Dry triggers are great for frequently stripped or indoor guns but shooting in the rain I would like some protection in there like VP90!
Dry triggers are great for frequently stripped or indoor guns but shooting in the rain I would like some protection in there like VP90!
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