Round two has commenced, not much, but the juices are beginning to flow

Hmmmmmmm,.......do you think i've left a little too much in the forestock????????

Haha,.........done nowt yesterday,.....but done the tricky stuff (in letting ) today

Plain sailing now


Here’s how I did the in-letting for the trigger housing.
Don’t know if this is the way things are normally done in the world of stock making, but this is how I went about it.
Firstly, I made the first cut (as shown in pic1). The straight cut would be best tackled with a table, or circular saw. I own neither, so, I use my jigsaw, and square things up with a plane.
Once you’ve got the shoulders of the fore stock nice and square (check it with a combination, or set square), you can mark it out for the rebating.
Using a marking gauge, find the centre (width) of the timber, and mark it out.
Then I got an old stock and clamped it alongside the blank. Then, using a set square, I transfer all the measurements of the rebating across onto the blank, then, with a set of verniers, or a steel rule, I check that all the marks tally up distance wise. Take your time with this, as it’s vitally important that everything is in the right place!!
Now then, once everything is clearly marked out correctly, you’ll need to cut out the trigger hole (as seen in pic3). To do this I used a 19mm spade bit in my cordless drill ( You might want to use a pillar drill if you’ve got one, I didn’t), then use a jigsaw to join the holes up. I also used a drum sanding bit in my pillar drill to smooth things off.
Once you’ve got the trigger hole cut out, you can start with the trigger housing in-letting.
With the blank upright and clamped, either in a workmate or vice, drill a hole using a half inch wood bit, through the centre of the trigger rebating section that you have marked out. The hole will go right down into the slot that you cut for the trigger.
This hole is where you will start cutting the slot with your router for the trigger housing to fit into.
Now, for the next stage you will need a router, i chose a ½ inch Erbauer 2100W jobbie (cheap, but with a bit of poke), but there are others equally up to the job. I used a ½ inch shank ½ inch diameter x50mm straight cutter bit.
Once the router fence (guide) is set so the router bit is dead centre, you can start to cut out the trigger housing slot, you’ll need to put a stop line either end of the slot that your cutting out, this can only be determined by measuring from the edge of the router bit, to the edge of the platform on your particular router.
When cutting the trigger housing slot I set the depth of the router so it only cuts about 5mm deep each pass . Starting from the middle I slowly make a pass up to my stop line then back over up to my stop line at t’other end. (This probably sounds very confusing, I wish I had pictures of each sequence to show you, ......might try that on my next project)
Now then,....when making a stock with an integral trigger guard like the ones I’ve made, you’ll need to change the standard trigger guard for a thin metal blanking plate that allows you to have full access for trigger adjustment, and acts as a retainer for the weight of pull spring (again i could do with a picture now, but I ain’t got one, will try to add one later). I use a cut down trigger guard for this purpose. When this is fitted, the depth of the trigger hosing slot needs to be around 45mm, measured from the shoulder of the forestock. So it’s just a case of lowering the depth of the router cutter 5mm at a time until you achieve your desired depth.
I’m going to stop there for now with this post, as it may be easier for me to take pictures, and, do a write up as I go with my next project.

As tricky as inletting is, you do a great job of making it look easy gordon Great job so far mate.
ATB Mike D

Keep it up,it's coming along nicely again

Nice to see a garage as tidy as mine

Mr PeeCeePee,

HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO DO ANY WORK WITH THOSE THINGS BANGING TOGETHER .

please remove as i have lots to do today , they are very distracting !!!!!

I've always wondered what's causing them to bounce like that??

Well they certainly seem to defy the laws of gravity

must
















stop






















looking














going























blind

A few pics from today.

Coming along nicely

Coming on fine that Geordie Can you run us through your in letting procedure, how and what tools you use etc.

Is it going to be the same design as the first one

It is Tim, yes.
Although there will be slight differences from one stock to another with them being totally hand made.


I'll try to do a bit of a write up on the subject Kev. I'll edit some posts at a later date and try to provide some step by step details.

ATB, Gordon.

Following this intenseley as REALLY fancy having a go at it myself....

Like Kev says too a description of the 'inletting' process would be a bonus..

Keep up the good work Gordon...

Same here Paul
And to Gordan, That would be much appreciated mate

Alright Norm i see your going again , i just wondered what you do as a job ? as you seem quite at home with a bit of wood and some tools . Again im sure it`ll be a great job , keep us posted pal

Done a wee bit today.
Here's a pic or two,.
Will try to get some better pics sorted for later

Love it pal

Cheers Buster.

looking good so far Geordie

John

Mostly sanding and shaping today........all that dust makes you quite thirsty
Thanks to everyone for your kind words.

I must say Geordie , i love the work , BUT , i am indulging in a hobgobblin myself and i love the stuff Cheers buddy , good health to ya

Looking good geordie.

I don't drink a lot nowadays Bust,......but ive got to say i adore the odd bottle or 3 of hobgoblin,......purely for medicinal purposes of course Many thanks Deano mate

Right then folks,....i have a bit of a dilema
There are some areas of light coloured sap wood on one side of the stock.
Now i quite like them,.....but i,m thinking also of applying a Walnut stain.
Can't make me mind up what to do .....what do you reckon leave it as is or stain???
I have damped the area in question ( see pic2) to highlight what i mean.
Pic3 shows t'other side of the stock where there is no light areas.